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The chandelier sparkles in the dining room of one of Raleigh’s newest restaurants, where one of the must-order dishes is a basket of fries unlike any you’ve ever seen.
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Perhaps that’s because the new Botiwalla by Chai Pani is a bit unlike any other restaurant, taking the counter service model to new heights. Instead of a white tablecloth dining room, that chandelier dangles above the cash register, next to which are Indian versions of Lays potato chips and snacks. Above, portraits from Golden Age Bollywood movies stare out from high up shelves, the frozen drink machines whirl and the air is fragrant and rich.
Botiwalla arrived in Raleigh this summer from the acclaimed Asheville restaurant group Chai Pani, which has a James Beard award and a slew of restaurants from Washington, D.C. to Atlanta. When it first debuted in Raleigh Iron Works, Botiwalla was dinner-only, but last week it finally kicked off lunch service.
We wanted to taste the hype, so I stopped in recently for an On a Budget column, where N&O reporters dine for $25 or less. (Spoiler: I busted my budget, but I learned my lesson for next time.)
Botiwalla was built to be a counter-service version of Chai Pani’s greatest hits, serving popular dishes like the lamb burger, Gobi 65, MG Road wings and the Okra Fries, all signature bites.
In the weeks since Botiwalla opened in Raleigh, a lot has changed in the Triangle. A friend waited in a long line for dinner one night and watched as the Stanley Cup emerged from a black SUV with blacked-out windows and disappeared into Brodeto across the street, where the Carolina Hurricanes were having a victory dinner.
I think because Botiwalla had quietly started its lunch service, the light was short and mercifully air-conditioned in the 95-degree swelter.
I opted for the spicy lamb seekh kabab, where a skewer of spiced ground lamb is grilled and packed into warm, buttered naan, topped with cilantro, onions and cabbage slaw, served with yogurty raita for $14. Hoping for some extra spice, I asked the employee at the register if I should add anything to the lamb. She suggested the mango pickle and offered it on the house, though it’s usually $1.
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Since the first time I heard of Botiwalla, I wanted to try the okra fries, where pods of okra are cut into thin ribbons and fried until the tips are crispy and charred. So that was a must, even at $10 a basket. Already at $24 pre-tax, a mango lassi or frozen nimbu pani weren’t in the cards this time.
I wandered outside into the summer inferno and chose life and air conditioning for this lunch. By the time I had my water cup and picked out a table, the okra fries had arrived, all in a remarkably quick three minutes. I was told to squeeze the lime and enjoy.
The Botiwalla okra fries are about as addictive as a snack can get. The textures change by fry and sometime by the bite, from the sharp crispy ends, to the tender, chewy middles, with pops from the occasional hard-fried seeds. The fries are probably too salty, but that’s actually my favorite flavor, with a warmth from the chaat masala and brightness of lime. I ate the entire large basket, but later realized Botiwalla serves a kid’s version for $5 — probably a better size for solo diners.
The lamb was rich and generous, easily filling the naan, with a welcome sharpness of raw red onion and cilantro. There wasn’t a ton of heat in this self-advertised spicy kebab, needing a bit of a green chile boost. The mango pickle added crunch and punch, with a powerful tang reminiscent of buffalo sauce. The flavors were towering and satisfying, but I might reach for the Botiwalla house hot sauce next time for the heat.
Botiwalla enters the Triangle alongside a host of other national fast casual brands, a post-COVID trend that only seems to be gaining momentum. But this North Carolina-born concept feels like something else, celebrating flavor and convenience in ways the others don’t. There are few more lavish restaurants than Botiwalla, which is festooned with color and whimsy, including a giant mountain-side mural atop several wooden booths.
In a segment running to the middle, Botiwalla seems to deliver a feast of flavor and personality.
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This story was originally published July 21, 2026 at 8:03 AM.