{"id":3533,"date":"2026-06-29T16:06:39","date_gmt":"2026-06-29T16:06:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/durhammovinghub.com\/?p=3533"},"modified":"2026-06-29T16:06:39","modified_gmt":"2026-06-29T16:06:39","slug":"you-told-us-where-to-find-the-triangles-best-hushpuppies-we-tasted-4-favorites","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/durhammovinghub.com\/?p=3533","title":{"rendered":"You told us where to find the Triangle\u2019s best hushpuppies. We tasted 4 favorites"},"content":{"rendered":"

AI-generated summary reviewed by our newsroom.<\/p>\n

Read our AI Policy.<\/a><\/p>\n

The hushpuppy is ephemeral, lightly crisp for a brief joyous moment, something to savor even though it\u2019s often just a bonus bite on the side of a seafood platter.<\/p>\n

Read more Bedbugs shut down DMV office in Durham for 2 weeks<\/a><\/p>\n

Yes, the humble hushpuppy, the cornmeal fritters we slather in honey butter or snack on before a meal, is a beloved piece of North Carolina restaurant culture.<\/p>\n

A few weeks ago we at The News & Observer asked readers to share their favorite hushpuppy spots, collecting dozens of recommendations for the best fried pups out there.<\/p>\n

In the responses, we noticed something: Durham has a high concentration of puppy love. We knew we needed a taste test.<\/p>\n

Multiple readers shouted out Bullock\u2019s Bar-B-Cue, Cook Out, Jean\u2019s By The Sea and Saltbox Seafood Joint as their favorite hushpuppies, restaurants that are each just a few minutes from one another. One is the oldest restaurant in Durham, one is a fast food giant, one is brand new and one has a James Beard medal on the wall.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s how they stacked up.<\/p>\n

I have many blind spots in my taste palette. Even as a North Carolina native, I\u2019ve had too few barbecues to weigh in on any heated debates about the culinary tradition with any authority.<\/p>\n

Taking a hushpuppy tour of Durham, therefore, was an overdue pilgrimage. Embarking upon it bestowed a surprising sense of honor, learning and tasting how different recipes came to life. Unlike our sweet tea taste test<\/a>, no \u201cright way\u201d to make good hushpuppies emerged.<\/p>\n

I pride myself on objective measures in these reviews. But every time I felt so sure that the batch of hushpuppies in front of me just fell short of my criteria, I took another bite. And another. With each crunch, my certainty waned like the hushpuppy in my hand, leaving only grease and a need to revise my rubric.<\/p>\n

In other words, each restaurant \u2014 well, except for one \u2014 executed their formulas so well, you should consider my rankings as a guide for those with personal taste similar to mine rather than impartial judgment.<\/p>\n

Just a few months old<\/a>, Jean\u2019s By The Sea has quickly established itself as a refreshing seabreeze in a former roadside burger joint. Most diners encounter the hushpuppies at Jean\u2019s on the Calabash platter, an inland ode to North Carolina\u2019s world-famous seafood capital<\/a>.<\/p>\n

These pups, which we encountered at peak freshness just out of the fryer at lunchtime, look like golden fingerling potatoes. There\u2019s a crinkle to the crisp of the hushpuppies at Jean\u2019s, a lightness that seems impossible and reminds you of old fashioned doughnuts. Yet in the airy crunch, the hushpuppies still have a pleasant chew that doesn\u2019t for one second think about becoming dense.<\/p>\n

Of the four hushpuppy orders, Jean\u2019s were the sweetest, but it was just a note of summer corn, not cake-like cornbread.<\/p>\n

Perhaps because we only ordered hushpuppies, Jean\u2019s offered us a special off-menu accompaniment: a small tub of maple butter. Every great hushpuppy can stand on its own. But every great everything was made better dunked in maple butter, and the same can be said for these wonderful hushpuppies.<\/p>\n

Drew\u2019s Jean\u2019s rating: 9\/10<\/b><\/p>\n

James Beard-winning chef Ricky Moore<\/a> doesn\u2019t call them hushpuppies at Saltbox, they\u2019re Hush Honeys. The name comes from the drizzle of honey the pups get just before they\u2019re served, the warm hushpuppies sending a burst of floral sweetness into the air.<\/p>\n

These Hush Honeys are dark, but not over-fried, crispy without being crunchy. There\u2019s a snap to the bite, a warm, pleasant chew and crisp lightness. The honey takes care of the sweetness, finding a balance with the fritters, and the Hush Honeys get a dusting of lemon, pepper and fennel seasoning that takes it to a new brighter level.<\/p>\n

At Saltbox, many things are not as they seem. It\u2019s a fried fish joint, sure, but the fish on the menu is from just a few hours away and might have been driven in that morning from the coast, delicately fried and hit with a punch of seasoning.<\/p>\n

The same is true of the Hush Honeys, where Moore has taken something classically North Carolinian, served it true and familiar, while making it his own, winking at the tubs of honey butter he surely dunked his hushpuppies in as a kid.<\/p>\n

Drew\u2019s Saltbox rating: 9\/10<\/b><\/p>\n

Down the street from one of Durham\u2019s newest restaurants is Bullock\u2019s Bar-B-Cue<\/a>, the oldest restaurant in the city. An owner described the restaurant in terms we could understand. \u201cWe\u2019ve made millions of hushpuppies in our nearly 75 years,\u201d co-owner Ty Bullock said.<\/p>\n

In the early days, those hushpuppies were shaped by spoons and dropped into hot oil. Now they have a doughnut maker that can drop two at a time in rapid succession.<\/p>\n

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The hushpuppies at Bullock\u2019s are thick and long, with a light golden crust studded with tiny minced onions. These hushpuppies are also wonderfully crisp, but with a bit heavier chew. The flavor is led by those tiny onions, with only the faintest corn sweetness amid all the savory. Our brown paper bag didn\u2019t come with tubs of butter, but if you sit in Bullock\u2019s packed dining room, that\u2019s what you can expect; a bit of creamy sweetness to elevate these perfectly old school hushupppies.<\/p>\n

Drew\u2019s Bullock\u2019s rating: First reaction 7.5\/10, building to 8.0\/10 after a few more hushpuppies.<\/b><\/p>\n

At the end of Hillsborough Road\u2019s fast food row is Cook Out, the one where then-candidate Joe Biden ordered a \u201cBlack & White\u201d milkshake<\/a> back in 2020.<\/p>\n

Best known for an array of milkshakes<\/a>, a good burger and less than good french fries, Cook Out is one of the rare fast food joints serving hushpuppies. These are very dark and stubby, arriving to us so hot and dense it\u2019s fair to say they spent some time basking in the heat lamp. These pups are heavy on chew, tasting mostly of savory corn and onions.<\/p>\n

While not on the same level as our homegrown hushpuppies in this taste test, Cook Out\u2019s version played its one note well enough. Many, many hushpuppies out there are this style of dense, chewy, somewhat dry, somewhat over-fried bite, that we still find ourselves reaching for.<\/p>\n

Drew\u2019s Cook Out rating: 5\/10<\/b><\/p>\n

Well below the tier of the top three, the one-note savor of a Cook Out hushpuppy is the kind of assembly-line flavor I expected from a chain. I could eat the other three restaurants\u2019 hushpuppies without sauce. Not the case for Cook Out.<\/p>\n

The onion flavor is strong but there\u2019s not much else, so it bores the taste buds after a few chews. The hushpuppy\u2019s interior is desert dry and has a crumbly texture. The hushpuppy itself is so small yet so dense and hard to crunch.<\/p>\n

Only a dab of tangy, sour-sweet Cook Out sauce somehow neutralizes and adds flavor to a recipe I can only describe as what the whirring sound of a refrigerator filling its ice maker must taste like.<\/p>\n

I may be biased. In my past lives, I\u2019ve discarded many a Cook Out tray with three or four hushpuppies left inside, so I knew coming into Thursday the chain wouldn\u2019t click with me. To be fair to their hushpuppies, though, a full-hearted dip into Cook Out\u2019s trademark sauce salvages their standing with me \u2014 somewhat.<\/p>\n

Twumasi\u2019s Cook Out rating: 3\/10 without sauce, 6\/10 with<\/b><\/p>\n

Bullock\u2019s engineered the biggest golden puppies we tested. Perhaps that\u2019s a risk; a dense batch of hushpuppies is asking a lot of your customers\u2019 appetites. Bullock\u2019s really swings on its taste \u2014 and it doesn\u2019t miss.<\/p>\n

For a savory take on the hushpuppy, I loved the integrity and fluff of the texture inside. Biting into a puppy felt less like a crunch and more like snapping a Graham cracker. A savory hum throughout, and a subtly sweet aftertaste.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m more partial to sweeter and less dense. As can be the case with more savory hushpuppies, these were a bit dry \u2014 far from a dealbreaker, but enough to tilt them away from my preference.<\/p>\n

Twumasi\u2019s Bullock\u2019s rating: 8.5\/10<\/b><\/p>\n

The concept of \u201cHush Honeys,\u201d as Saltbox calls its hushpuppies, colored me skeptical at first. I thought for sure that drizzles of honey would overpower any flavor. How happy I was, then, to be completely wrong.<\/p>\n

The perfect amount of honey plus the perfect amount of lemon pepper-tasting seasoning made for an addictive taste. The hushpuppies\u2019 flavor and texture served as a neutral, crunchy base for the flavor to show out.<\/p>\n

Saltbox\u2019s hushpuppies provided the most electric experience of the four. The restaurant\u2019s number two ranking is more like a 1B. If, like me, you like sweeter hushpuppies, the Saltbox formula gives savor and saccharine equal showtime.<\/p>\n

Twumasi\u2019s Saltbox rating: 9\/10<\/b><\/p>\n

The inches of daylight between Jean\u2019s and Saltbox merely represent the difference between a genre-bending remix and what I think an elite hushpuppy should be: golden, soft to crunch and sweet with a donut kind of texture.<\/p>\n

Jean\u2019s aced my arbitrary test with aplomb. The inside of each hushpuppy almost melted in my mouth. The texture was halfway to chewy \u2014 even as the hushpuppies\u2019 exterior didn\u2019t require a forceful chomp \u2014 and the taste was halfway to donut with the right broil of sugar.<\/p>\n

To my surprise, I enjoyed Jean\u2019s hushpuppies more without their maple butter. The butter\u2019s aftertaste overshadowed the real star of the show.<\/p>\n

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Twumasi\u2019s Jean\u2019s rating: 9.25\/10 without butter, 8.5\/10 with<\/b><\/p>\n

This story was originally published June 29, 2026 at 11:21 AM.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We sampled four Durham spots \u2014 Jean\u2019s By The Sea, Bullock\u2019s, Cook Out and Saltbox \u2014 to rank the Triangle\u2019s beloved hushpuppies and reveal our favorites.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3532,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3533","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-read-todays-edition"],"yoast_head":"\nYou told us where to find the Triangle\u2019s best hushpuppies. 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